Do RVers Really Need A Power Management System?

I see that question all the time on Facebook and most of the Blogs that I read.  For the simple, easy, straightforward answer, YES you do.  There are so many factors involved here that I can not possibly cover them all in a single post but, I would like to cover the basics so that you can better understand why you need a Power Management system of some kind.





1. You need to know what the AC (Shore Power) voltage is inside your rig.  This is the power that indirectly powers lights, water heater, microwave, furnace, charger for the 12-volt battery system, etc.  If the voltage gets below 102 volts and should stay there for a few minutes it would be possible to sustain approximately $1200 of damage or more.

So what do you need?  You will need an AC Line Voltage Monitor.  The unit shown below is plugged into an AC wall outlet that you can see and will monitor what the line voltage is.  If it should go below 105 volts you need to unplug your rig from the outside power pedestal until the voltage goes back to normal.

AC Line Voltage Monitor

So how do you know when the outside power pedestal is back to normal.  You plug the Voltage Monitor into the 125 volts two pin socket in the power pedestal and see what the monitor reads.  It should read 110 volts or higher up to 125 volts.  The same caution goes for overvoltage.  You should unplug the rig from the power pedestal if your Voltage Monitor begins to read over 122 Volts.  Plug the Voltage Monitor into the power pedestal and watch for the voltage to drop to below 122 Volts.
Could this monitoring of the voltage be done for less money?  Yes, by using a cheap Digital Volt Meter  pictured below;

 Digital Volt Meter  

Harbor Freight often offers a cheap digital voltmeter for free, with coupon.  Watch their ads and take advantage of the offer.  You could plug the test leads that come with the meter into the meter and then the other ends of the test leads into the slots on the AC wall socket. (Caution do not leave unattended) Or you could make up a cord from a 6-foot extension cord and the test leads that come with the meter.  See below for an example.

AC Cord With Test Meter Leads

2. Next is  The Polarity Tester.  This is used to be sure that the Neutral wire of the power line is not reversed with the positive lead of the power line.  If that were to happen you could have what is called a hot-skin condition.  Meaning that if you had an aluminum skinned rig you could receive quite a shock from your rig.

 The Polarity Tester

The Polarity Tester can also tell you if the Earth Ground (the bare copper wire) is hooked up properly.  
The Earth Ground is a separate conductor which may seem to be doing nothing but, is, in fact, a protective wire. It is there, ready to take the current away to earth ground, from the body or frame of the electrical device it is connected to, makes contact with any "hot" wire. [the 120 volts mains power is carried in two current carrying conductors called "hot" and "neutral".] 
So, IF one of the "hot" conductors should contact the metal frame of the rig, or housing of an appliance, perhaps because the appliance got damaged by being dropped from a table, or similar accident,  the third wire which is the earth ground wire, which runs directly from the housing to the grounding [or earth ground bus] in the fuse or breaker panel, will in effect cause a short circuit which should blow the fuse or trip the breaker. 
This third wire also guarantees a current path back to the electrical panel where the fuse or circuit breaker protecting that circuit is located, in the event that the hot wire should come in contact with the rig's frame, but the neutral conductor should happen to have been cut or damage and become disconnected, or open. 
The idea is to guarantee that if a part of the rig, device or appliance should become "hot," which could be fatal to anyone who then came into contact with it. That the earth ground would trip/open the circuit protection device [fuse or breaker], and turn off the flow of AC current. 

To help further in checking for unwanted or wanted electricity a good investment is the, Voltage Sensor which is shown below;

 Voltage Sensor

With this probe, you do not need to touch the power line to tell if there is voltage present.  You can use this probe to find power lines behind the wall or under the floor of the Rig as well as the towing vehicle.

3.  Often times you want to know or need to know how much power something uses, especially if you keep popping a breaker or the power pedestal. The solution is Kill-A-Watt .  The unit shown below can be used to show how much power an appliance, tool or piece of electronics is using.

 Kill-A-Watt

4. Next, let's look at surge protectors for the various pieces of equipment in your Rig.  Surge Protectors protect only what is plugged into them and only for over-voltage surges.  Surge Protectors do not protect for under voltage or high voltages.  Shown below is a pair of good simple surge protectors;

Surge Protectors

There are Appliance Surge Protectors made just for appliances like microwave and coffee makers

 Appliance Surge Protectors

AC refrigerators, freezers. 

Refrigerator/Freezer Surge Protector

These special surge protectors offer extra features like audible alarms, flashing lights, displays, etc and are to be used with just the items listed on the packaging for the one you would buy.

5.  Next is a group of power management items that will protect your entire Rig not just one item or several items in it. First is the Portable Power Management System This type of system looks at High and Low voltage protection, a time delay for air conditioning compressor startup, 3-mode surge protection, reverse polarity protection, open neutral protection, open ground protection, AC frequency protection accidental 220 Volt protection. Includes an Integrated information panel, previous error code display is weather resistant and has a built-in locking bracket so it can be chained to the power pedestal at the campground to prevent theft.  The only thing this unit cannot do is flush the black water tank.  The miracle unit we are talking about is shown below.

30 Amp RV Surge Protector

These portable units come in two sizes the one above 30 amp and the one shown below 50 amp.

50 Amp RV Surge Protector

Let's say you were involved in a lightning-caused power surge at a campground.  It is estimated you would suffer approximately $3000 to $5000 worth of damage to the electrical system of your Rig along with the things plugged into it.  The features of the 50 amp unit are the same as the 30 amp unit.
Ah, but there is more!  What happens if you do not want something portable but something more permanent in the Rig? Then you have the permanently installed units which are called Fixed Power Management Systems  These units are not really a DIY type of item but, they can be installed by the DIYer if care is taken during the installation.  The 30 amp model is shown below;

 30 Amp Fixed Power Management Systems

There is also a 50 amp version of the same unit as above and can be found here;  50 Amp Fixed Power Management Systems .  The features of both units are the same and are,  high and low voltage protection, time delay for air conditioning compressor start-up, 3 mode surge protection, surge trip indicator, reverse polarity protection, open neutral protection, open ground protection, AC frequency protection. Accidental 220V protection, with remote information display panel, and unit bypass switch.  Unfortunately, this unit also does not dump the black tank.

I hope that you now have come to the conclusion that some type of power management is needed to protect your Rig, its contents and YOU!









Until Next Time

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

RV Security On The Road And In Storage

It is that time of year again when most of us will have to store our RVs until next Spring. We all do the Winterizing like we are suppose to.  But how many of us even worry about someone coming along and stealing our RV?  Well, we should.  Let's take a look at what you can do to protect your, very expensive RV from being stolen.
Because I live in the city, I can't store my Open Range 3X anywhere on my property or on the street. So like a lot of city dwellers I have to put my RV in storage when I am not using it.  To my shock and amazement, two units were stolen right out of the storage lot that I use.  To add insult to injury, the storage lot had a guard on site, a security system for entrance, and security cameras.  But the same guy managed to get two units out of the locked lot.  Well, thanks to the security cameras they caught the guy.  But what can you and I do to make our units harder to steal and more secure.  Let's look.





First, we can add a lock to the ball area of a TT and a 5th Wheel Hitch Lock. Let's look at both.  The TT ball lock looks like below.

TT ball lock

• One size fits all (from 1-7/8", 2", to 2-5/15", all coupler types)
• Keyhole cover slides up to seal out dirt and grime
• Type A key which is a spring loaded, 7 pin, high-security key. Resists attempted drill outs. Rugged and durable, the key will not bend or break.
• Huge 6 tooth, 3/8" dual ratchet locking system
• Hardened 5/8" 16mm steel shackle

Now that should slow down anyone trying to take the TT quickly.  Now let's look at what can be done to slow down the would-be thief stealing a 5er.  See below for the 5th Wheel Anti-Theft device

5th Wheel Anti-Theft device

This unit slides over the hitch pin and prevents the hitch pin from being attached to, by the hitch receiver. Simple but effective to slow down our would-be thief.

I think we could do more. How about we lock the tires so the RV cannot be moved without putting new tires on the RV? Shown below is an RV Dual Wheel Stop with Padlock

 RV Dual Wheel Stop with Padlock

• Secure tandem tires to prevent movement while parked or re-hitching
• Fits 26" to 30" diameter tires with tire spacing of 3-1/2" to 5-1/2"
• Includes, padlock
• Easy grip handle for easy installation
• Lightweight and durable

This should slow them up but what about something even better?  Let's look at the X Wheel Stop with Padlock.

 X Wheel Stop with Padlock.

While the lock for this heavy-duty unit is extra (a Master Lock, that you supply) it will be well worth it if it slows down someone trying to take your RV.  In most cases, if it is hard to take or time-consuming to take the thief will move on to easier pickings.

We have protected (to the best of our ability) someone trying to take your RV but what about protecting the expensive stuff inside the RV and in the storage bay.  Let's take a look on how to help protect those areas.

First the entrance doors.  Did you know that the key to your RV has been duplicated many times by the manufacturer of your RV?  Did you know that almost any thief can come up with a key that fits your RV doors?

So let's look at a lock that is a bit safer. The Keyless RV Door Lock

Keyless RV Door Lock

• No wiring needed; uses 4 AA batteries (not included) It's retrofittable in most RV entry doors and it's easy to install.
•  Programmable with a 4 digit PIN number The large buttons are easy to see and use Proximity sensing which illuminates the buttons.
• Self-contained electronic RV latch with Capacitive Touch Technology
• Offers hassle-free touchpad access: no key or fob to carry with you.
• An integral touchpad to the latch which controls the deadbolt
• Deadbolt key will always be able to operate the paddle or deadbolt lock in case of the user forgetting the code or having a dead battery, 8-inch x 5-inch x 4-inch.

You don't even need a key to get this lock to open after you enter your personal pin number.  So it will not be a big deal if you lock your keys in the RV. By mistake, of course.

Let's take a look at the outside storage compartment locks.  Did you know that's the lock code for your storage compartment lock is CH751?  This is the most common lock used on TT and 5th wheels today.  So anyone can get in. Let's look at a better idea. The RV Storage Compartment Combi Lock.

RV Storage Compartment Combi Lock

• Cylinder length 1-1/8"" - accommodates material thickness up to 7/8" thick
• Durable solid metal
• 1,000 possible combinations- set your own code
• Retrofits any standard cam lock
• Comes with 3/4" prong washer, 1-1/2" offset cam, 3/4" straight cam, 1-1/2" straight cam and a 90 degree stop.

This type of lock is a direct replacement to what comes on most TTs and 5ers. You take off the old one and measure the hole opening and the length of the shaft and order the same size as the one you have.

Follow the installation instructions and you are done. A really simple install.

Until Next Time



And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Bugs, Bugs And More Bugs

Now that Spring has finally sprung, and Summer is on the way, it is time for the bugs of the RV campgrounds to rise up against their camping overlords.  I am sure that you have had your fair share of bugs either the crawling type or the buzzbomb type. I will try to give you some hints and tips on how to get rid of both types safely and cheaply.

 So let's go.

Ants

Ants we all seem to collect them either during storage or while camping. Here is a cheap and pet safe way to get rid of them both in the RV or your sticks and bricks.

You need to mix in equal parts of,

1 part baking soda

           and

1 part powdered sugar (not the granulated kind used in coffee)

You will need.
   

1 lid from any jar

Mix the baking soda and powdered sugar and put into jar lid and put out where you have seen the ants. It will not be long and the ants will be gone. So you may ask why this works. Inside of ants, there is an acid type fluid when mixed with the baking soda causes the ants to explode. If you or the dog should eat the mixture nothing much happens, it just doesn't taste good.

Cornmeal is another safe way to get rid of ants, but it can be a bit messy. Just sprinkle the meal around the nesting area or along the ant trail. In a day or so the ants will be gone.

Stink Bugs

These little devils are not native to the USA but, like many of our ancestors have immigrated to a better life here in the USA. So how do you get rid of them now that they have hitched a ride in your RV?

In a spray bottle, combine 32 ounces of hot water and three-quarters of a cup of Dawn dishwashing liquid and spray the exterior of your RV's, windows, and doors. On the inside spray around baseboards inside cabinets, closets, and any other dark area inside the RV. For an extra kick, you can use the anti-bacterial variety of dishwashing liquid, but understand that it contains additional chemicals. Of course, a good bug spray will also work but might not be safe for Fido.

Wasps

You are getting your RV ready to go for spring and you spie a wasps nest or several wasps returning to the same spot time after time. What can you do? Well spray the area or nest with WD40 and that will rid you of the nest or neutralize the area that the wasps were going to use to build their nest.

There are also a variety of commercially made glass wasp traps that claim that they are helpful in reducing wasp populations in the area. The trick is to make sure you keep replacing the bait, as wasps like fresh bait. And also, please consider using savory bait, such as tuna, as that will attract the yellow jackets and wasps, but not honeybees, which a sweet bait will. The glass traps are actually very pretty, but you can also make your own inexpensive version out of any type of plastic bottle (soda pop bottle, or water bottle). 

Follow these instructions to make your own.

Mud Dauber (Wasp)

While these wasps are non-aggressive to humans, they do cause problems to RVers by getting into places they should not be.  Like gas orifices of the heating system, hot water system, and refrigerator.  The best defense here is to plug the holes leading into these areas of the RV.  

See below for screening suggestions to keep them out of your RV.

Mosquito

The scourge of the RV camping experience the Mosquito. First, how do you keep them off you? Use Skin-So-Soft. You can purchase here Skin-So-Soft and it really does work for several hours. It is safe for kids and does not contain Deets. However during scientific tests, Deep Woods Off, proved to be the best you could buy in keeping Mosquitoes away from you. BUT it does contain DEETS. Please be careful when using Deets around children. Be sure to follow directions for use of the product.

So what about those flying around? We need to construct a mosquito trap.

Please follow this link to "Wiki How" to see how it is done. 

Make-a-Plastic-Bottle-Mosquito-Trap

Bait the trap. Mix 1/4 cup of Brown Sugar with 8oz of hot water. Mix thoroughly and allow to cool. After the mixture cools, pour into the bottom of the plastic bottle. Add 1/4 TSP of Yeast. 

DO NOT MIX!!! The mixture gives off carbon dioxide that attracts the Mosquitoes.

Once the Mosquitoes are tricked into going in they can't figure out how to get out, so they get trapped and die.

Dispose of the Mosquito trap regularly whenever the number of dead Mosquitoes does not appear to be increasing.

 You have saved the planet and your camping area from thousands (well maybe hundreds) of Mosquitoes.

We thank you!

So how do you stop or slow down bugs getting into your RV when the front door is kept closed most of the time?  You put screens over the openings caused by the water heater, furnace, and refrigerator.

Let's take each one and see what can be done.

Water heater.  You can buy a water heater vent screen, such as this one, Flying Insect Screen

Flying Insect Screen

and install it (easy DIY project) over the water heater RV vent.  I have a KZ Spree and could not find a water heater vent cover so I covered the inside of the water heater cover louvers with insect screen and used silicone to bond the screen to the metal water heater cover.  Works great.

Furnace vent. You can buy a furnace vent screen, such as this one, RV Furnace Screen

RV Furnace Screen

The kit comes with everything you need and will keep the Mud Daubers out.

Refrigerator Vents.  You can buy a refrigerator vent screen, such as this one, Refrigerator Vent Screens

 Refrigerator Vent Screens

I installed these on my Open Range 5er and use some zip ties to hold the screens in place so they would not move around.  This was a simple DIY project and will keep the bugs and Mud Daubers out.  Check around windows and doors for any cracks or small openings that may have developed and keep storage doors closed while camping and you should keep the bugs out and enjoy the indoors as much as the outdoors.

Until Next Time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 

Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

Is It Level??? Is It Stable????

Is It Level??

How many times have I heard that phrase at a campground?  I can't even count them or remember them for that matter.  How do you know when your rig is level and what can you do if your rig is not?
Let's look at some of the possibilities.





The first thing you need to do is eyeball the site that you will back into or pull forward into.
Does the site appear flat?  There could be a drainage crown to the site, meaning that the center is higher than either side so that the rain water will drain off quickly if it does rain.
Maybe there is a slope in the site toward the right or left.
All of this needs to be taken into consideration when looking at the site.
Ok, you are pulling or backing into the site and you have the support of a ground crew so getting into the site is not the problem.  The door side of the rig appears lower that the street side or is it?   How do you know? Well at some point in the life of your rig someone should have put bubble levels on it.
(For you guys with money we will discuss auto leveling equipment at the end.)

They should look like theses RV Bubble Levels

RV Bubble Levels 

If you have nothing, or what you have is so small as not to be readable then an up-grade is in order.  You should mount one of these in the front of the rig where the level can be easily seen, after taking the rig to a Walmart type parking lot and using a construction level, checking that the rig is sitting truly level before you mount the above levels to the rig.  The second level is mount on the street side of the rig at the same height that you mounted the front of the rig level.  Be sure you have confirmed that construction level and the RV level agree that the rig is level.
Why you ask?  Because if you are more that 5 degrees out of level your RV refrigerator may not work or will not work efficiently.
But you may not have a TT maybe you have a 5th wheel and need something a bit bigger.  Enter the 5th wheel bubble level.  This is mounted on the pin box so you can see the level from the drivers seat.

5th Wheel Bubble Level

Even if you have auto-leveling on your fiver you want to start out as close to level as you can so as to not put to much stress on the self leveling system.

Ok, you have found that the door side of the rig is low and needs to be raised up to bring that side into level.
Now the fun begins.  You will need to put something under the wheels to raise that side of the rig.  You will need what is called a RV Tire Leveling Block,

RV Tire Leveling Block

RV Tire Leveling Block

These blocks interlock so they will stay put if more than one is used and they are designed not to sink into soft soil or blacktop.  Just how many you will need to level up the low side is often just simple trial and error.
I always start with one above ground level under each tire on the low side and go from there.  Let's say that you needed two under each tire on the low side to get level.

Did you remember to pull up on them and not try to back up on them?
Better for the tires if you pull up on the leveling block rather than backing up on them.

Also did you make sure all tires were centered on the blocks not on an edge?
The axle of the tire or the hub in the middle of the tire should be centered on the leveling block.
Why? Because it puts less stress on the tires, that really do not like being off the ground in space.

Here is yet another way to level your Rig.  This one is a bit different that the square block used above, this one is a Ramp Style Leveling System and will help you level your rig from any increment between 1/2 inch and 4 inches.  This ramp style will hold up to 30,000 pounds.  If you have two axles then you will require two ramps per side.

Ramp Style Leveling System

The smaller ramp is used to chock the RV from moving once the RV is level.  The ramp with the holes in it, is the adjusting ramp. 

You have check the levels on both the front and side of the rig right?  So now what?  You need to check that the fridge is level. On way to do that is to use a Torpedo Level

 Torpedo Level

This small 8" level can be use inside the fridge or on the nearest counter next to the fridge to check to be sure that the fridge is level. (Level - not more that five degrees out of level, is very important to the good, safe, and efficient operation of an RV fridge)

You are now level so what is next? Unhooking and stabilizing the rig.
Once you are unhooked you need to put down the corner stabilizer jacks.  Most travel trailers use Scissor Jacks

Scissor Jacks

This type of jack is NOT for leveling your rig.  It is to keep the rig from moving back and forth as you move around inside.  If one of the jacks does not meet the ground you can use one or more of  the tire leveling blocks to help stabilize that corner of the rig.  As shown in the above photo a hand crank is the normal method of deploying this type of jack and can be a real pain.  There are two fixes for the hand crank used on these jacks.  One is the Stabilize Scissor Jack Socket for an electric or battery operated drill.

stabilizing Scissor Jack Socket

The second but more expensive way is to motorize RV scissor stabilizing jacks

motorized RV scissor stabilizing jack

This jack is remote control and is powered off the rig so it makes the stabilizing fast and easy.

Many of the newer 5th wheels will have will have powered corner jacks and landing jacks.  Some will have auto leveling that will level and stabilize the fiver.  But what happens when you are still getting sea sick from someone walking inside the fifth wheel or travel trailer?
For the 5th wheel there are several things that can be used and have had success.
First is the Stabilizer Jack

5th Wheel Stabilizer Jack

I use these back at the bumper, where the bumper joins the frame of the fifth wheel.  The use of these has really made a difference in the movement of the trailer.

Next is the expandable wheel chock or X-chock.

X-Chock

This chock does double duty if you use a paddle lock to lock the chock from being removed it will stop someone from being able to steal your RV with-out a lot of work.

Your rig is now level and corner supported but, when someone walks around the inside of the rig it still does the shimmy, shimmy, shake.  Now what?  There are many suggested solutions out there to solve this problem but here is the simplest one that works.  The RV Stabilizer           

RV Stabilizer   

One of these can be added to the rear of the rig to stop side to side motion and or one can be added to the side of  the rig to stop the front to back motion.  This looks simple and it is but, it does work.

The X-Chock from above will also work on Travel Trailers to help stop motion and help to prevent theft as well.

OK, now for the guys with money.  If you would like to add remote control automatic power leveling jacks to your TT or 5er, the following is a company that has received good reviews for their lift systems; Big Foot Leveling System

Big Foot Flip Down Leveling Jack for TT

The type of DIY that is required to install this system is not in the scope of this blog.  But this type of wireless remote control system is out there and for those who would like to add automatic power leveling to their rig here is a place to start.






Until Next Time

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

Basic Tools For The RVer

What tools do you need to have when RVing?  If you ask 10 RVers you will get 10 answers.  That's because we all seem to run into problems with our RV that is a bit different from the next RVer and the tools to fix the problem that arose is slightly different. But there are some basic tools of the trade, so let's talk about those.






You will find that you will need something to put whatever tools you decide to carry into something that is strong but light.  Tools have weight and it does not take too many until you have added measurable weight to your rig. So here is a toolbox that works.Simple Tool Box

Simple Tool Box

Now that we have a toolbox, lets see what needs to be in it.

A screwdriver Multi Screwdriver

Multi Screwdriver

I chose one like above because it cut down on weight and space in my tool box.  If you rather, you could buy two flat blades (one large, one small) and two Phillips screwdrivers a #2 and #1 or an  additional size of your choice.
You will need a special set of screwdrivers for use with those pesky square headed screws that are used on the inside and the outside of the rig. These special square screwdrivers are shown below.

square screw drivers

 A set of basic pliers is next.  You will need several types.  Here is an example Basic Pliers

Basic Pliers

You will also need several advanced pliers, such as the ones shown below.

Slip Joint Pliers

Slip Joint Pliers

Vice-Grip Pliers

Vice-Grip Pliers

You will need and use all the above pliers.  It is just a matter of time.  Next we move on to crescent wrenches.

#8 Crescent Wrench (8" Crescent Wrench )

8" Crescent Wrench

#10 inch Crescent Wrench (10 inch Crescent Wrench)

10 inch Crescent Wrench

Now for the special stuff.  This is stuff you need but may not use monthly.  I use this stuff as needed.  The first is the torque wrench.  This is used to check the lug nuts on the tires of the rig to make sure they are tighten to factory specifications. I use this before each trip to check the lug nuts on the tires.  I have found that some of the wheel lug nuts do change. 

Torque Wrench

3/8 inch Extension Bar Kit

3/8 inch Extension Bar Kit

The extension bar kit is used to get the torque wrench outside of the tire rim for a safer tightening of the lug nuts that hold the tires.  You will also need a drive socket that fits your tires lug nuts and is made for a  3/8" drive.

If you have a Suburban water heater you will also need a breaker bar shown below, to remove the anode to check the anode as well as to replace the anode if needed.

3/8" Breaker Bar Wrench

3/8" Breaker Bar Wrench

Suburban Water Heater Anode

Suburban Water Heater Anode

You will also need a socket that fits the anode, along with the white plumber's tape

Plumbers Tape

Plumbers Tape

 to prevent water leaking around the threads.  I have always carried a spare Anode Rod just in case, you just never know when you will need one.  Be sure to change the rod yearly.

Hex Key Set

Hex Key Set

Of course a hammer is also a tool that should be carried

Hammer

Hammer

To see into those dark areas around the RV you will need a small but powerful flashlight.

Cree 7W Mini LED Flashlight

Cree 7W Mini LED Flashlight

One tool that I have that I really like is not really a tool but my multimeter.  I can check to see if there is voltage what kind and how much.  I can check for open and shorted wires as well as other things.  I highly recommend one for your toolkit. 

Multimeter

Multimeter

Another tester that is handy and some people think it should be a mandatory basic tool is the AC voltage monitor.  This shows what the park voltage is at any given time, (low voltage can damage your RV electrical system and electronics) and shows if the power pedestal is wired correctly if plugged into the pedestal before plugging in the RV.  Note: "You may have to get a Short jumper [Dog Bone] from 30 or 50 amps to standard AC wall socket to test the pedestal."  Meter is shown below.

AC Power Monitor

AC Power Monitor

The following is the tool I would not be without.  The multi-tool.  I carry this tool on my belt and I even bought the expansion kit for it.  You just never know when you need a screwdriver or pliers to tighten or loosen something.

Multi-Tool

Multi-Tool

I know someone will say, this is not all you need and will give me a list of stuff as long as my arm.  Things like gorilla tape, super glue, black electrical tape, clear and white silicone caulk.  I agree they are important and should be carried, but as I said earlier. This is the basic list and like American Express "I never go RVing with-out them"

Until next time.

The Open Range RV Owners is a Facebook Group on RVing with Hints & Tips. A group for the Full-timer as well as the Newbie. In case U can't find us "Facebook.com/groups/Open Range RV Owners" we are here hoping you will join us!

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.