Living In Your RV In The Winter Tips

We have talked about staying warm in your RV during the cold winter months. First by moving South to warmer weather but, for many that is not an option. If you have to say in the cold for whatever reason what should you do to help your RV not to freeze? Let's look at the different areas of the RV and what can be done to keep that area from freezing.






First the outside perimeter.  Ok, let's get it on the table, do not use bales of hay to surround the rig.

Why there are cheap and easy to stack?
Because of  FIRE, rodents, and bugs. If for some unknown reason the hay should catch fire there would be little chance of survival.  And don't forget that many outdoor creatures would love to come inside your RV and spend the cold winter months.

What can be used?  You can use skirting for your specific RV. Which is shown below;

Custom Trailer Skirting

While this is expensive it is a good solution to the problem of cold air getting under your RV.
Click on the link below the above picture or on the following link for details. EZSnapDirect.com

There is another solution for the DIYer and that is 

Rigid-Foam-Insulation-Board

Foil-Faced Foam Sheathing board is a rigid polyisocyanurate foam sheathing that provides exceptional heat, moisture, and air control.

• 4'x8' sheet (9' and 10' available via special order)
• 3/4" thick
• R-4.4
• One side has a reflective foil face typically installed toward the warm air surface to reflect energy back toward the dwelling and the other side has a white non-reflective foil face typically installed toward the exterior.
• Can be used in residential construction as insulated sheathing in above grade exterior walls, above and below grade interior walls crawl spaces attic, sand cathedral ceilings as well as Type I-V commercial applications
• Highest R-value per inch of any rigid board insulation.
• Does not melt when exposed to flame versus other types of rigid foam board (ASTM E84)
• Reflective aluminum foil face blocks radiant heat and prevents penetration of air and intrusion of moisture

Dimensions: 3/4" x 4ft x 8ft Cost as little as $9.25 per sheet

This type of foil backed foam board can be cut to fit and close-in around the RV to protect the underbelly of the RV from freezing. This type of insulation is available at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, etc.

You would secure the foam to the RV and to itself by using aluminum heating duct tape.

Aluminum Heating Duct Tape

The area under the RV that you create by enclosing the area needs to be heated with a low heat generator such as this mini heater.

Mini Heater

This heater uses about 200 watts of AC power and I would use two of them for a 40ft trailer.  The heater should be placed off the ground several inches in case of water flow.

Second is the water and control compartment.

Yours may look different,  but the issue is that it needs heat.  This area should be kept warm by a Mini Heater or 60 watt light bulb.  The concern is the water hookup to the trailer and the ability to release the black and grey water tanks valves.  One problem you can encounter with a light bulb as a heat source is light.  In many articles that I have read on winter camping one solution to heating, a small area is using a 60 watt light bulb.  But at no time does anyone offer a solution to the light pollution that is given off by the bulb.  Here is one solution you might consider,  a

60 Watt Non-Lighting Heat Source

60 Watt Non-Lighting Heat Source

 This non-lighting heat source can be used by screwing into a clamp on-light fixture or using just a bulb socket and cord.

Following is a sample of a clamp on a lamp base.

Clamp On Lamp Base

For the fresh water lines, you will need to use the shortest hose you can to go between your rig and the fresh water source. 

Pirit Heated Water Hose

• Provides a constant source of water in freezing temperatures
• Thermostatically controlled
• Turns on when temperatures are below 45 degrees
• Turns off when temperatures are above 50 degrees
• Made from drink-safe PVC
• Keeps water from freezing down to minus 42-Degrees Fahrenheit
• Tougher thermostat

Do not let the hose lay on the ground.  You can do this by wrapping the water hose in pipe insulation. You can get some from Home Depot, Lowes Menards etc.

Pipe Insulation

Use some of the Aluminum Tape to seal the pipe insulation and do not forget to wrap the water source with pipe insulation to help keep it flowing.  Some people even build a box out of the foil foam board to cover the water source to further insulate.

Next the sewer and sewer hose. "DO NOT LEAVE THE DRAIN VALVES OPEN" Open as needed to dump the gray or black tank.  Use the shortest sewer pipe you can and you need to support it off the ground.  Wrap the sewer hose with heat tape first.

Heat Tape 30 Feet

Next wrap the sewer hose and heat tape in a blanket made from a Hot Water Heater Insulation blanket

Water Heater Insulation 

You want to wrap it tight and then tape it very well to hold it together.  Leave an overlap at both ends to go over the sewer connection and the sewer pipe that comes out of the ground and be sure the heater tape is wrapped around the end of the pipe that is attached to the RV as well as the water heater insulation blanket.

To keep the sewer hose off the ground and well supported you can use rain gutter pipe or you can use,

 RV Sewer Hose Support

Some RVers even put a gallon of RV antifreeze down the black tank after dumping the tank to help ensure that nothing gets frozen between dumps.

RV Antifreeze

I have not tried this myself, but there is no reason it would not be a good idea.  It is an added expense that would need to be considered.

I believe that covers the outside of the rig now let's move inside and see what can be done to keep out the cold and keep in the warm.

You need to check all the doors that you go in and out of the rig with.  If you can see daylight around the edge of the door with the door closed. You will have cold air coming into the rig.  You need to put door weather seal around the door to seal the door better.

Door Weather Seal

What about the windows you say.  You are right if your rig windows are single pane, as most of them are, you will need to winterize them as well.  The easiest way is to use the small bubble pack wrapping material that you can find almost anywhere.

Bubble Wrap

Installation
• Cut the bubble wrap to the size of the window pane with scissors.
• Spray a film of water on the window using a spray bottle.
• Spray a film of water on the bubble side of the bubble wrap using a spray bottle.
• Apply the bubble wrap while the window is still wet and press it into place.
• The bubble side goes toward the glass.
• To remove the bubble wrap, just pull it off starting from a corner.

Next, let's look at the vents in the rig. All of the vents through the roof allow warm air to rise into a cold space and chill the air.  We need to block the upward movement of the air but still be able to use the vent when needed.  A vent pillow is just the thing.  You can make them if you are handy or buy some cheap pillows you can stuff into the vent opening or you can get these.

RV Vent Insulator

Fits standard 14" RV vents

Reflective surface blocks the sun's damaging rays

Full 2.75" of foam to help stop heat transfer

Durable and easy to store

Keep your RV cooler in the Summer and warmer in the Winter

Now that we have sealed the rig against the cold air we have now trapped water vapor from cooking, propane heating, showers, and human breathing inside the rig.  You will begin to see water or moisture on the walls of the rig and anything that is colder than the inside air.  This is not good and can cause mold.  To get rid of the moisture and reduce the humidity we need a dehumidifier.  Several ideas come to mind.

First,

RV Dehumidifier

Quiet Small-Size Dehumidifier with No Moving Parts

Removable 16-oz. Water Tank & Washable Air Filter

Features 'Tank Full' Indicator Light

Auto-Shuts When Water Reservoir is Full

Measures Just 5.75" x 5.32" x 8.78" in

You might need two of these in a large 40ft rig.  They do work and keep the air drier but not completely dry.

Next is the Goldenrod Heaters.  You also will need several of these in larger rigs but they are smaller and you do not need to dump them, like the one above.

 Goldenrod Dehumidifier

This unit comes in different sizes up to 36 inches in length.  It consumes about 1 watt per inch and is mounted along the wall at the floor level.  You will need several in a large rig as they can dehumidify approximately 200 cubic feet of air. So if you have a bunkhouse then that room would have its own unit. The main living area would have one and the master bedroom would have one.

Something I have used is DampRid in closets and drawers where moisture is not wanted and may be harmful to the contents of the surrounding area.

DampRid Moisture Absorber

That should do it.  You have done your best to get the rig ready for winter and now the daily grind begins.  In a separate blog post, we cover how to keep you and the kids warm when it is cold outside.

Until next time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

The RV Waste Treatment Tanks (Grey & Black)

I do not plan on explaining how to dump the grey and black tanks on your RV.  What I would like to do is to explain how to stay out of trouble in dumping your tanks and dis-spell some of the myths on when to dump your tanks.






So what are the main differences between sticks and bricks waste disposal and your RV?  First, there is no worry about getting rid of the waste at your sticks and bricks.  You let water splash into the sink and it just disappears down the drain.  No matter how much water you put into the sink.  You flush the toilet you never have to worry about sewer smell coming back-up and if the toilet gets clogged up you just plunge a few times and presto the waste is gone.

None of the above is true for your RV.  If you put too much water down your sink, you will overfill the grey water tank and the wastewater will flow into your bathtub or shower.  If you leave your waste slinky hose hooked up with the open/close valve on you RV open you will invite sewer gas and some critters, from the campground into your RV.
Do not leave your black tank dump valve open all the time when hooked to the campground sewer line.
Because your toilet is on top of your black water tank there is a limit to how much waste you can put down there as well.  Also if it gets plugged up, plunging it will not help!
So what to do.  For the smell problem that might occur in the grey water tank, I use Grey Water Tank Smell Killer.  It works. You should put a cup of Dawn Liquid Dish Soap down the kitchen sink once a month to break up grease and oil in the Grey Tank and sink P traps.

Grey Water Tank Smell Killer

As for the water back-up, you should dump your grey tank every two days while camping or sooner if the water starts to back up.  This is the tank you can dump before you leave for home.
The grey water tank should be the last tank you dump before you head for home.  After dumping it you need to add approximately 1 gallon of clean water back into it and one of the grey water tank smell killers and you are good to go.

BLACK WATER TANK

Now the black water tank the scourge of RV camping.  There are a lot of does and don'ts about this tank so let's get started.
No matter what you hear or read almost all of the sensors that are supposed to tell you how full the black water tank is, do not work.  I have been told and it has been proven that the sensors mounted on the outside of the tank do seem to do a better job than those sensors that are inside the blackwater tank.  Most of the crazy ideas floating around about how to make the sensors inside the black water tank work also do not work.  To fix the problem of, the black water tank sensors and how full is the blackwater tank.  So, how do you know when it is time to dump the tank?  Look down inside the toilet and if you see blackwater, hear gurgling, and stuff floating, it's time to dump the tank.
 So what can you do to improve how the black water tank works.
Use only quick dissolving toilet paper in this tank.  Toilet paper made just for RV is fine such as RV 2ply Toilet Paper or septic tank safe toilet paper.  But you can use just about any toilet paper that will quickly dissolve.  To test any brand of toilet paper to see if it can be used,  take a glass jar with a lid.  Fill the jar about 3/4 full and add a single sheet of your toilet paper to be tested.  Put on the lid and give the jar three quick shakes.  If most of the sheet of toilet paper is broken up and coming apart you are ok to use the toilet paper tested.

Check here for more details RV Toilet Paper Safe.

We have safe paper what next?  How about something to get rid of the smell and help break down the waste. I would suggest a Black Holding Tank Deodorizer and Dissolver

Black Holding Tank Deodorizer and Dissolver

This should be added to your black water tank regularly.  I add one tablet after each time I dump my black water tank and another during hot weather if there is a smell problem.

Oxy-Kem 

Here is another possible black tank treatment Oxy-Kem that comes highly recommended.  I have not tried it so I can't comment on how well it works, but I do plan to and will let you know.  I did get a chance to try the Oxy-Kem.  However, it was not very successful.

Here is an all natural black tank cleaner that really cleans the tank as well as the sensors.  I have not tried it myself but all of the reports I am getting say it works. Unique Black Tank Cleaner  I have tried this black tank cleaner and found that I did not like it and have stopped using it.

Unique Black Tank Cleaner

Lately, I have been using Firebelly Outfitters, Tank Deodorizer.  I use two packs of the deodorizer per black tank.

Firebelly Tank Deodorizer

I have used the product for several months now and have found positive results so far.  Another positive thing is that the people who make and sell this product are RVers.

Do not dump your black tank unless it is full or nearly full.  I know what you must be thinking but we never get it full over a weekend trip.  I realize that maybe the case but, you need to fill it up manually and dump it before you leave the park.

You do not need a hose or make this a big deal just flush the toilet and insert one of these things.

 Johnny Chock

Johnny Chock

          

Let the toilet run for approximately 10 to 15 minutes depending on how full your tank is.  If you can see the water in the black tank from the toilet that is full enough.  Remove the Johnny Chock and store.  Now dump the black tank like you usually do.  Add about a gallon or more of water (you can run the toilet with the Johnny Chock for 2 to 3 minutes and that should do it.  Drop in one of your black tank tablets and you are ready for the next outing.

Never leave the black tank drain valve open.  You are just asking for the smells of your neighbor's sewer to come up into your RV.  Or if you are really unlucky you could get the "black pyramid of death".  Because the liquid drains out of the open drain valve quickly the black solids are left behind and start to pile up.  If air gets into the tank from the open valve and drys out the solids you are really in trouble.  Or if you dump your black holding tank too frequently you will also have a build up of the solid waste.  This is a problem you do not want the black pyramid and could cause a very expensive repair.  To prevent the "pyramid of death" you need to flush your black tank when it is at least 3/4 full and refill it so that there is some water splashing inside as you drive back home.

One of the things you hear and I have tried is to add one cup of cheap dishwashing liquid soap to break-up waste and Calgon to lube the inside of the tank.  Does it work?  I have been using it and have not seen much of an improvement.  I plan on using this in the grey water tank next to see if it makes a difference to that tank.

Quick Guide To Waste Tank Dumping

1. Grey Water Tank can be dumped anytime.
2. Use a tank treatment when needed. (to reduce smell and add microbes)
3. Dump Black Tank when at least 3/4 full.
4. Add a small amount of water to both tanks after dumping. (up to 2 gallons)
5. Use the grey water to flush out sewer hoses.

Until Next Time.





Improve Your Over The Air HD Reception

If you are RVing for just a weekend or full timing it, the chances are good that you will be within the range of one or more HD TV channels.  The problem is that most of us just can't seem to get enough signal to watch TV.  Heaven forbid that it rains and you would need something to entertain the kids besides a good book.






Most RVs come with a crank-up antenna like the following.

While this antenna is a good one, it was designed for mostly VHF analog TV reception.  (The old style TVs.)  Most of the TV reception today is UHF digital and calls for a bit more antenna.
Winegard has solved the problem with the addition of the Wingman below.

Wingman HD TV Add-On



This unit attaches to your current Winegard crank-up antenna and really does boost HD TV reception.  No special tools are required to attach it to your current antenna.  Just follow the instructions that are included with the antenna.
I have added one of these Wingman Antennas to my crank-up RV antenna and have really seen a major improvement in the number of channels that I can receive as well as the strength of the signal on the channels that I could always get.

Let's talk about the maintenance of your crank-up antenna.  At least once an RV season you should get up on the roof of the RV and lubricate all the swivel points on the crank-up mechanism.  I have used  White Grease in the past but this year I am going with T9 Lube which is a bit less messy than the white grease.

Now that you have a great HD TV Antenna you might need some help pointing your TV antenna for better reception of local stations, try this link: Maximize your television reception.  Follow the instructions,  just enter the zip code where you are, or use the map to place a pin where you are and the site will tell you the best direction to get the strongest local TV signals. Be sure to tell the program that the antenna will be mounted more than 30ft in the air to get all the TV channels.  Along with a list of the TV stations within range.

Have you read stories about RVers forgetting to crank-down their TV antennas and losing them to a tree?  Here is an idea to stop that.

RVminder Tags

This kind of idea has worked for me.  You could use some brightly colored ribbon and just write Antenna on it and attach it to the crank handle of the antenna and put a second reminder in the towing vehicle.  Anything to remind you to crank the antenna down.



Also, do not forget to check the antenna amplifier switch is you are having problems with off the antenna reception.  When you switch from park satellite/cable you will need to turn the antenna amplifier back on.  Most RV parks request that you turn the antenna amplifier off when hooking up to the parks system.

Until Next Time.

How To Stay Warm Inside The RV When It Is Cold Outside

There is a group of us RVers that like to camp all year long and we live where that is possible.  Some of us Cold Weather RVers have little choice and must be in our RV all year long.  So how can you stay warm inside the RV when the world around you is just too cold?






Let's be clear on one point. If you have a rig that can take the cold it can only take it if the main furnace is set to keep the inside of the rig above freezing.  Most all weather rigs must have the furnace running to keep water pipes that run inside the rig from freezing.  That includes the black tank and grey water tanks as well. So you will need to keep the rig furnace going but you do not need it running at 72 degrees.

Let's talk about keeping you warm and comfortable.  I suppose we could all dress like Eskimos, but that seems a bit much for just reading a book inside our rig or maybe eating dinner.
You could wrap yourself in an electric throw blanket and be comfortable, like this one.

Electric Throw Blanket

If you added these to your feet you would be warm as toast.

Warming Footies

OR

Snoozies Many Styles

These Footies or Snoozies and the electric throw you should be able to sit around and enjoy TV or read a good book.

But what about sleeping in bed?  That is a good question, so let's take a look at that.

You could put one of these Mattress Heating Pads on your bed and plug into electric and sleep warm as toast all night.  These heated pads come in all the popular sizes King, Queen, and Twin.  I have shown the queen size below;

Mattress Heating Pads

Because heat rises this mattress type heating pad is much better than a heating blanket and will use less power to keep you toasty warm during the cold night.  That might be good for the sleeping time but what about being up and moving around the rig?

Ah, but you need to heat the Rig so you need more power, I mean heat.  Then you want a Ceramic Space Heater  This type of heater generates a lot of heat for very little electricity used.  The one pictured below is what I use.  I use two of the Ceramic Heaters. One blowing toward the bedroom and one in the living room blowing toward the kitchen.  These heaters will cook you out of the Rig, they can generate so much heat.  I winter camp in North Texas and it can get below freezing, as we all found out in the winter of 2013/2014.  But even though my water hose froze outside, inside we were as warm as toast.  Shown below is the  Space Heater I have;

Electric Space Heater

I have listed some of the features of this unit below:

• Small Heater Measures: 6.2" X 4.74" x 8.3" . 
• Three Modes Heater With Fan: 1.High Heat (1500-watt), 2. Low Heat(750-watt ), 3. Fan Only.
• FOR SAFETY: 1.Automatic overheat system will shut the unit off when the parts of the heater overheat. 2. TIP-OVER SWITCH will shut off unite when tipped forward or backward.

If you have a four-legged friend (Furkid) traveling with you, please take note: this unit comes with Auto Shut-Off.  If the Heater is tipped over the heater shuts off automatically.  This is a very important feature if you are traveling with four-footed friends.  There are some clumsy two-legged friends out there as well.

There are other options to keep warm in the RV you could also use one or more of these oil filled heaters.

Oil Filled Space Heater

The simple controls allow users to customize their heat with an adjustable thermostat and three temperature settings, and the ComforTemp setting maintains an optimal room temperature while conserving energy. The heater never requires refilling, and the anti-freeze technology automatically turns the unit on when the temperature drops below 42 degrees.
Oil heaters are quiet and run about 10.5 cents an hour to operate which can be a money saver compared to other types of heaters. 

 I know from experience that these hints and tips will work. They keep the family warm during our cold weather camping, which we enjoy most of the time. 

Until next time.

And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy. 
Just click on an Amazon link, then shop as usual.

RV Security On The Road And In Storage

It is that time of year again when most of us will have to store our RVs until next Spring. We all do the Winterizing like we are suppose to.  But how many of us even worry about someone coming along and stealing our RV?  Well, we should.  Let's take a look at what you can do to protect your, very expensive RV from being stolen.
Because I live in the city, I can't store my Open Range 3X anywhere on my property or on the street. So like a lot of city dwellers I have to put my RV in storage when I am not using it.  To my shock and amazement, two units were stolen right out of the storage lot that I use.  To add insult to injury, the storage lot had a guard on site, a security system for entrance, and security cameras.  But the same guy managed to get two units out of the locked lot.  Well, thanks to the security cameras they caught the guy.  But what can you and I do to make our units harder to steal and more secure.  Let's look.





First, we can add a lock to the ball area of a TT and a 5th Wheel Hitch Lock. Let's look at both.  The TT ball lock looks like below.

TT ball lock

• One size fits all (from 1-7/8", 2", to 2-5/15", all coupler types)
• Keyhole cover slides up to seal out dirt and grime
• Type A key which is a spring loaded, 7 pin, high-security key. Resists attempted drill outs. Rugged and durable, the key will not bend or break.
• Huge 6 tooth, 3/8" dual ratchet locking system
• Hardened 5/8" 16mm steel shackle

Now that should slow down anyone trying to take the TT quickly.  Now let's look at what can be done to slow down the would-be thief stealing a 5er.  See below for the 5th Wheel Anti-Theft device

5th Wheel Anti-Theft device

This unit slides over the hitch pin and prevents the hitch pin from being attached to, by the hitch receiver. Simple but effective to slow down our would-be thief.

I think we could do more. How about we lock the tires so the RV cannot be moved without putting new tires on the RV? Shown below is an RV Dual Wheel Stop with Padlock

 RV Dual Wheel Stop with Padlock

• Secure tandem tires to prevent movement while parked or re-hitching
• Fits 26" to 30" diameter tires with tire spacing of 3-1/2" to 5-1/2"
• Includes, padlock
• Easy grip handle for easy installation
• Lightweight and durable

This should slow them up but what about something even better?  Let's look at the X Wheel Stop with Padlock.

 X Wheel Stop with Padlock.

While the lock for this heavy-duty unit is extra (a Master Lock, that you supply) it will be well worth it if it slows down someone trying to take your RV.  In most cases, if it is hard to take or time-consuming to take the thief will move on to easier pickings.

We have protected (to the best of our ability) someone trying to take your RV but what about protecting the expensive stuff inside the RV and in the storage bay.  Let's take a look on how to help protect those areas.

First the entrance doors.  Did you know that the key to your RV has been duplicated many times by the manufacturer of your RV?  Did you know that almost any thief can come up with a key that fits your RV doors?

So let's look at a lock that is a bit safer. The Keyless RV Door Lock

Keyless RV Door Lock

• No wiring needed; uses 4 AA batteries (not included) It's retrofittable in most RV entry doors and it's easy to install.
•  Programmable with a 4 digit PIN number The large buttons are easy to see and use Proximity sensing which illuminates the buttons.
• Self-contained electronic RV latch with Capacitive Touch Technology
• Offers hassle-free touchpad access: no key or fob to carry with you.
• An integral touchpad to the latch which controls the deadbolt
• Deadbolt key will always be able to operate the paddle or deadbolt lock in case of the user forgetting the code or having a dead battery, 8-inch x 5-inch x 4-inch.

You don't even need a key to get this lock to open after you enter your personal pin number.  So it will not be a big deal if you lock your keys in the RV. By mistake, of course.

Let's take a look at the outside storage compartment locks.  Did you know that's the lock code for your storage compartment lock is CH751?  This is the most common lock used on TT and 5th wheels today.  So anyone can get in. Let's look at a better idea. The RV Storage Compartment Combi Lock.

RV Storage Compartment Combi Lock

• Cylinder length 1-1/8"" - accommodates material thickness up to 7/8" thick
• Durable solid metal
• 1,000 possible combinations- set your own code
• Retrofits any standard cam lock
• Comes with 3/4" prong washer, 1-1/2" offset cam, 3/4" straight cam, 1-1/2" straight cam and a 90 degree stop.

This type of lock is a direct replacement to what comes on most TTs and 5ers. You take off the old one and measure the hole opening and the length of the shaft and order the same size as the one you have.

Follow the installation instructions and you are done. A really simple install.

Until Next Time



And finally, please remember that this blog is an Amazon affiliate. When you order something through any of the Amazon links, it doesn’t add anything to your cost, but I do earn a small commission on everything you buy.